Sunday 28 September 2014

04-Sept: South Africa - Kruger (Biyamiti)

We left Skukuza bright and early, 7am departure - early starts are an unfortunate necessity when you are looking to spot wildlife, as dawn and dusk are (supposedly) when they are most active.  Oddly enough, I am having no problems getting up without complaint. Now I'm not quite jumping out of the bed in glee mind you, but I'm not too far off it - most importantly there is no snooze button, and there is no battle. If I could somehow carry forward this enthusiasm to when I get back home I'd be delighted. But I know that once everything returns to normal, old habits will reform and my bed will again grasp me in its clutches and refuse to let me rise without a hard fought struggle each morning. Still, that's a problem for another day - today is our last full day in Kruger so I need to shake a leg and keep my eyes peeled.

Not for the first time on this trip I found myself wishing that I had a Marauders Map in my possession, one that would guide me to where the animals were hiding. As you drive by the bush you just know that the animals you so desperately seek are there, cleverly camouflaged staring back at you, sniggering...

Breakfast was had off the back of the 4x4. After fueling up with food we headed to the most incredible waterhole where we feasted our eyes on a plethora of animals. Side-by-side were hippos, impalas, crocs, herons, buffalo, flamingos, iguanas and warthogs, all vying for prime positions - it was like a scene from The Lion King, all it needed was Rafiki presenting Simba to the animals!

A cheeky heron was perched on a submerged hippo's back and seemingly glided through the water effortlessly. Class! The buffalo spot meant that already we had one of the big five off our list, just four more to go, and Pete really wants some cat action today - although to be fair we all do.

Driving through Kruger we came across many baboons (not Kirsten's favourite animal after being held 'hostage' by a group of them many years ago), plus we also saw a hippo in the bush who appeared to be a wee bit lost as he was a good bit out from any water.

We rounded a bend and came across a traffic jam, cars strewn everywhere - that can only signal one thing: CATS!!! All eyes scanned about trying to see what direction we should be looking. Then we spotted them, a pride of lionesses - about seven in total, down by the beach. Get in!!! We stayed for about fifteen minutes gazing at the cats, but they were simply content to lounge about on the beach conserving their energy. One lioness made her way across the river, but since there was only hippos on the other side, there would not be any action happening. Two down, three to go for the big five. Ooooh, I've a good feeling about this!!

We were staying in Biyamiti Bushveld Camp for the night, so started to make our way to the camp. Sitting in the back of the 4x4 I gazed out the window trying to locate a leopard, scanning trees, and the scrub - I was not leaving Kruger for a second time without spotting one. Suddenly an elephant filled my entire field of view. "Ellie!" I called, usual practice when you spot an animal thus allowing driver to stop and reverse if necessary. However in this case no reversing was necessary, the elephant was practically on top of us. Plus he was not at all happy to see us in his territory. Ears were flapping like mad and yup he charged us! Kirsten checked her wing mirror and saw an oncoming very agitated Ellie displaying awesome ear flaps and hastily put the foot down and we zoomed along the road. A poor unsuspecting BMW coming the opposite way suddenly had an elephant charging towards them fairly rapido. We had tears in our eyes from laughter on watching the poor driver reverse at breakneck speed, about turn and then completely leave us for dust as they tore hell for leather outta there. Phew! Well that was something. Three down, two to go.

Passed a dried up watering hole and it was crammed with about fifteen cars with big lens cameras everywhere - another cat folks!!! Now, where is it... Oh look, it's a leopard!!!!!!!!!!! Yay!! Completely not where I would have been looking for him, not up a tree, but resting on a rock at the base of a tree and surrounded by crazy humans. The poor creature was sleeping and here we all were watching it nap. I gazed in wonder at the size of the cat, plus its coat was mesmerizing - those rosettes so defined yet staring too long slightly dazzled you. Majestic is the only word to describe it.

Ten minutes must have passed before the leopard roused from its slumber, the head rose up, and it looked around a bit in bewilderment - understandable as no doubt none of this circus was about when he was going to sleep. He got up, stretched, and started to make his way past the cars and into the bush. All the engines fired up as soon as he started moving, all fully intent on following him as far as they could. That was a bit weird to witness and I can't say I was a fan of this aspect of wildlife viewing. We all willed the leopard to stay clear of the road and disappear off into the bush where we could not follow. Thankfully he seemed to agree with this line of logic. Still, a great spot. Four down, one to go. Today is surely the day we see all of the Big Five - come on.

We made our way closer to camp and suddenly the minivan halted in its tracks, pulling to the left side of the road. Kirsten drove up to the right hand side and we checked with Pete why they stopped. Another leopard, just up ahead on the road, a female by the looks of it, and apparently hunting, definitely appears to be in stalk mode.

We watched her movements for a while, and drove slowly a good distance behind her. Then she turned to look in our direction and wandered off into the bush. Wow! Two different leopard sightings in the space of half an hour. We are unbelievable jammy dodgers - stupendous!

Arrived at camp and checked into our little bungalows. I'm sharing with Pete and Kirsten - have a huge triple room to myself, cha-ching!! So many beds to choose, can you say bag explosion... mwhahahaha!!!

It is with great regret that I have to inform you that Calamity Lisa has returned. I was hoping that she would not surface on this trip, however it would seem (as Kirsten so correctly pointed out) that the Southern hemisphere seems to play havoc with my co-ordination. While carrying my bags into the house, I tripped over a little lip of a step from the outside lounge to the kitchen. Cue me going airborne and flying forward. Instinctive reactions had me putting my hands out, protecting my face from walloping the corner wall.

Luckily I didn't do too much damage, just skinned and bruised my knees (the left kneecap has a lump the size of a plum on it! In fact it kinda looks as though I've got two knees on one leg - ugh!), the palm of my right hand also had a huge chunk of skin partially lifted from it. Making my way to the bathroom, I tended to the wound on my palm, rinsing it out and examining the damage.

The gash went about 5mm deep, and I could see a white substance at the bottom of the wound, oooh I do hope that's not bone. The teeniest of touches revealed it was more of a jelly-like consistency, possibly just fat! Don't think about it too much, locate first aid kit and go wild with antiseptic cream and bandages. Feck sake! What am I like!!

Headed out on a night game drive with another park ranger. Spotted tons more creatures, but most importantly we located rhinos!!! Get in!! All of the big five done in one day - SUPERB!!!! Other animals we spotted were elephant, a bazillion scrub hares, and two porcupines shuffling along the road!

Arrived back to the bungalows beaming with delight and were greeted by candlelight as Kirsten had decided to make the lounge more atmospheric. A delicious meal was had and the Edwards brothers delighted us with stories of Vegas antics that had us in tears. The red wine flowed and a great night was had.

A lot of the group disappeared as we had another early start in the morning. Tony however cheekily thought that it would be extremely funny to open Geoff's Bacardi Gold seeing as he had gone to bed. Steve, Jim, Francois and Tony made a serious dent in the bottle - my incriminating effort was a mere token show in comparison. Oh, and when I say dent, they finished the entire thing, taking a cheeky photo to show Geoff the next morning. Hmm, there will be sore heads.

 
 
 
 

 
 


 
 
 




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