Sunday 28 September 2014

02-Sept: South Africa - Kruger (Skukuza)

Hello Jo’burg! It's bright and early, there's a slight queue at immigration but nothing compared to my last visit. Went to collect my bag (with fingers crossed that it had arrived) and also kept an eye out for Francois who was arriving same time as me with another airline. Look at that, there’s my baby one of the first bags to come out of the conveyor! Completely unheard of, as usually it’s one of the last. Grabbed the bag and located a trolley, also took a quick look at the baggage screen to see what carousel Francois might be at. Actually wait a second, I’m sure I recognize that person in the distance – a familiar Frenchman if I’m not mistaken! Yes, this reunion is definitely happening, get in!

Checked in for our third and final flight to Nelspruit, and got rid of the big bags. While deliberating over getting food I discovered that Francois had bought a very nice DSLR (which I duly fawned over coz twas very pretty, and oh so light!) and a bottle of JD while in Heathrow. That’s all well and good sir, but you are travelling on another flight and they may have a liquid 100mls allowance, did you not consider that? Shiiiiit! Cue us returning to check-in desks to see if we could find any more of our group who could afford smugglage space in their checked luggage.  Sure enough we bumped into Geoff, Tony and Lu on route. Yaaaay!! More celebratory hugs all round. Guys had no space in their checked luggage as they were already packing bottles of Gin and Bacardi – travelling with a bunch of alcos I am!! Hahaha! Still, Tony checked with the airline staff and because we were travelling a domestic flight, Francois was safe to have his bottle in his hand-luggage. Phew! Visions of us helping him down a bottle of JD subsided. Disaster averted.

The five of us made our way through security. When Geoff got out the other side he looked into the basket and went “My wallet? Where’s my wallet?”. Shiiiiit! Deeming the guy ahead of him to have taken it in error (or not), Geoff ran off in pursuit to question him.  In his absence we discovered the wallet in a second basket under his iPad. Oh dear, this will prove interesting. Geoff returned empty-handed (oddly enough) after having a heated discussion with an extremely miffed gentleman who did not like what was being insinuated one little bit. Awkward! Still, happy ending and our first drama of the trip. I can see now why the alcohol might be necessary! 

We proceeded to leave the security area. A few minutes later Francois exclaimed “My phone!” and sprinted back to security – he’d only gone and left it in one of the baskets after all the hullaballoo over Geoff’s wallet. Francois returned and said security no longer had his phone but had given it to the boarding staff. Next thing his name is being called over the tannoy and he is being requested to the boarding gate to collect it. Seriously!! I do not know these people at all; where did all this forgetfulness and drama-attracting tendencies come from? Hopefully that is our quota for the trip now complete in a manic 15 mins. 

Made our way to the boarding gate, where Francois was reunited with his mobile. We also met Jim and Sue who were joining us on the trip. Introductions were made and we chatted away. Finally Steve and Karen met up with us, and that made nine – our group was nearly complete. Wow, it's only 9am, however having not slept in over 24 hours I’m already wrecked! Luckily the Jo’burg to Nelspruit flight was only 45 mins.

On arrival at Nelspruit airport we met up with Pete and Kirsten (who was proudly displaying a tidy baby bump!!). Yet more hugging ensued, and lots of congratulatory wishes. Having gathered all our luggage we made our way to the parking lot where we were introduced to our two trusty vehicles for the trip: a Nissan Navara (complete with fridge) and a Toyota Quantum (complete with esky). After a quick bite to eat, we headed for our first destination: Kruger National Park, one of the largest game reserves in Africa. 

Pete tells us that this time of year is good for viewing wildlife as the vegetation is more sparse and animals are drawn to the waterholes to drink every morning and evening. Chances of hitting the Big Five are high!! Just in case you don’t know Africa's Big Five are: Elephant, Lion, Rhino, Leopard and Buffalo.

We spent the afternoon driving around Kruger spotting wildlife. Giraffe, hippo, impala, kudu, elephants and warthogs were the order of the day. Aside from Pete and Kirsten, Lu and Geoff are supreme spotters. I'm still agog at how well the large animals can be camouflaged. God, I love this! It’s so good to be back in Africa!!

Made our way to Skukuza, which is the largest camp in Kruger, and where we will be spending two nights. Disembarking from the minivan we saw that the pickup crowd were beaming suspiciously (Kirsten more so than the rest). Only very gentle prodding was needed for them to proudly announce that they had spotted a leopard!!! They even had pics to prove they weren’t spoofing. Noooo! This had better not be our only leopard sighting, he was my elusive nemesis last time round, the only one of the big five that I didn’t get to see. I really hope we get a chance to see another. Ah well, Kirsten 1 : Pete 0.

Accommodation is cute little thatched huts, and I’m sharing a bungalow with Geoff and Francois. Pete unloaded the fridge on the Navara into the outside kitchenette of our bungalow and began whipping up a welcome feast on the BBQ. We had ostrich, pork fillet, boerewors, cous-cous and salad, all washed down with some very nice South African red wine. Oh yes, it’s going to be a difficult trip…

I'm getting an awful ribbing from Tony and Geoff over my Irish accent at the moment as apparently it's very strong (they haven't heard me physically speak in a year). My lazy pronunciation of 'th' words amuses them no end. They are getting great delight in asking me questions about the time (usually at tree-turty) or querying my age (Turty-tree). At least they don't want me to be specific (Turty tree and a turd) - apparently tis very cute! I'm now on high alert and am precise in my responses, but god it's an effort. REALLY gotta think about it - and then very slowly enunciate it. Cheeky pups!

Later that evening a night drive was organized with the park rangers. On the drive we saw giraffe, two male lions, and a genet (related to cats, but more closely related to mongooses. Most have spotted coats, long, banded tails, small heads, and large ears). By the end of the drive I was ruing not bringing more layers with me as it was FREEZING, and my hoodie and windbreaker just didn’t cut the mustard!! We also caught a glimpse of some wild dogs, this was quite the sighting as there are thought to be only about 400 in the whole of South Africa. 

The rangers dropped us off at reception and we had to walk back to our bungalows. Unfortunately it was dark, and turns out our group do not have the greatest sense of direction. (Isn't that right Geoff!). Suffice to say we got there in the end, we just took an extended walkabout route to get there – making sure to double back upon ourselves to confuse any predators that may have been following us. By this stage I had gone 39 hours without sleep and was in desperate need of my leaba. So head hit pillow and that’s all I remember…




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