Sunday 28 September 2014

21-Sept: South Africa - Umkomaas (Umkomaas Guest House)

Another gorgeous morning in Africa! Oribi Gorge beckons today; it is a canyon in southern KwaZulu-Natal that boasts cliffs, forests and spectacular hiking trails. We decided to head up to Samango Falls, carefully picking our way up rocky paths and trundling towards the top. Disaster! The waterfall was completely dry - still got to see some lovely views though.

Next up, Leopard Rock Coffee Shop, which has got one of the most wow-inducing views I have seen. The panorama of Oribi Gorge is simply breathtaking. Beautiful orange beaked hornbills and glossy starlings flitted about the trees, greedily nabbing chips that were offered by staff. After quenching our thirsts Lu and myself headed out onto the ledge that is "Leopard Rock" - a seemingly perilously rock that makes for impressive photos. The rest of the group joined us, some more hesitantly than others.

Pete had mentioned that the gorge offered the highest swing in the world, that was equivalent to launching off a 55 storey building. He also had agreed to do it if I did - oooh challenge accepted Mr. Deverson! You fool!! Plus for the less adventurous there was an option to zip-line across the gorge.

Sadly time on the day was not on our side - darn that leisurely start!! The waterfall walk had taken us longer than expected and Pete now feared that with it being mid-afternoon queues at the zipline and suspension bridge would be too long (you are warned the wait can be anything up to three hours). Considering it was not peak season, I was a little suspect at this reasoning, I'm sensing fear Mr. Deverson, pure unadulterated fear, mwhahahaha!

Unfortunately, seeing as no-one else seemed dead set on wanting to do the blood-pumping, scream-inducing activities (one outta eight is not good odds when you are the lone one), it was instead decided to head back to the lodge along the coastal route and go shopping for the BBQ that Pete had planned that evening. A facetious Sue, having safely assured that we had traveled well over half an hour, piped up from the back "Ooh, I REALLY wanted to go on the zipline!". Cheeky little minx! Hehe!! We all got a good laugh outta that mahussive lie.

Driving along the coastal route (plus all along many of our drives to date) we came across fields and fields of sugar cane, as far as the eye could see. The roads were busy with massive double trailer trucks carrying the freshly chopped sugar cane to the processing factories. We also spied many trucks carrying the refined sugar for bagging. Umkomaas is located in the province of KwaZulu-Natal. The sugar cane business is a staple industry in South Africa and Mozambique. There are over 42,000 sugar cane growers in South Africa. KwaZulu-Natal has 14 sugar mills and is the epicenter of sugar production. Because cane needs to be processed within 24 hours of harvesting, the mills are located close to the plantations.

Cane cutters have an extremely tough life, for six days a week they cut the cane from dawn to dusk in an effort to meet their daily target (approx. 140 rows). If targets aren't met, wages are cut. If targets are frequently not met, the cutter is at risk of losing their job. For this reason many don't take breaks, work even when they're sick - they work until they reach the target. Most young people are unwilling to take on this profession because of the stigma, high levels of exploitation, low wages and long hours. Seeing women with babies strapped to their backs picking weeds in the plantations was quite humbling. Suddenly a boring desk job stuck in front of a computer all day doesn't seem so bad. A lot of things get put in perspective in Africa.

Back at the lodge, while Pete and Kirsten rustled up our final BBQ feast, the pool table was centre-point to some intense games. Tony turned out to be a bit of a shark, despite his protests of how he hadn't played in years, and him supposedly carrying a back injury!! He wiped the floor with every contender. Myself and Kirsten severely struggled to pot our balls during our little tussle. In our defense it is next to impossible to pot balls when you are laughing uncontrollably!

Cards were introduced and the ever-popular Shithead was decided upon as the game of choice - albeit with very different rules to how I usually play. Multiple games were played ensuring that everyone had the pleasure of being crowned shithead. While I may have collected the title of 'Shithead Champion' (losing four times in total over the course of the night, and three times in a friggin' row!!), Jim has the pleasure of being the current reigning Shithead - a title he cannot relinquish until the next time he plays...good luck with that there Jim!




















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