We visited the local school where some of the kids danced and sang for us. Chatting to the guide I learned more about their educational system, and everyday life in Maputo. Here they face severe overcrowding, a lack of basic sanitation, widespread unemployment (about 80%), food insecurity, few educational opportunities and heavy stigma. Life is very difficult, yet the smiles and good-natured attitudes of all the people we meet suggests the strength of the people here.
Moving through the maze of alleyways we headed to see a group of Nampula women. They regaled us with singing and dancing, even treating us to a version of the Macua “rope” dance. Afterwards we were invited to ask questions in order to learn more about their way of life. We timidly asked a few questions, not quite sure how much to pry. Francois asked to test the white face paint (mossiro) that they had on. The leader told him that only women could put it on their faces, but he could put it on his hand if he wished. Francois wasn't too satisfied with that so he removed his hair bobble, shook out his hair and stated that surely with the long hair he was nearly female right?
The ladies were a bit bemused, but agreed to paint his face regardless. This was a perfect ice-breaker as they found this to be extremely funny, the younger ladies giggling bashfully. Then one of the older ladies saw an opportunity and went for it. She grabbed a patterned sheet and made it into a skirt (capulana) for him. Then they grabbed another sheet and created a turban for him. Next him was pulled into the group and invited to dance with them.
A few local men and kids gathered round and bowled over laughing at the spectacle. Our tour guide was slapping his knees in amusement. The feeling of mirth and good-humour was incredibly infectious and we were all laughing by the end. Hmmm, I'm guessing they are going to remember the day the Frenchman came to visit - perhaps even fondly.
(Pretty much all my photos from this day are 'acquired'. I find it extremely difficult to take photos of people just going about their daily life. It feels too intrusive, and I know if the situation were reversed I'm wouldn't want strangers taking photos of me as I went to work, walked along my neighbourhood or played in my back-yard. Don't get me wrong, photos of locals can make for some beautiful pictures, as the beaming smiles of the kids are simply heart-warming. Plus it really gives you a feel of things. And permission was asked a lot of the time before snapping. Nevertheless I get very uncomfortable at the thought of taking them, and so can not. However without the pics you'd have to rely on my feeble descriptive abilities, and as they say a picture paints a thousand words so I've pinched a lot of Tony's shots for this post)
We hastily returned to the hotel, our walking trip had gone on longer than expected and we were due to check out half an hour ago. Keycard didn't work in door, we were all locked out. Great!! Still, we all popped down to reception explained the situation and were given half an hour grace to empty the rooms. Vans locked and loaded we said goodbye to city life and made for the beach.
Road construction is rife in Mozambique at the moment, we got stuck in a horrendous traffic jam on a red mud dirt road. Cars made up their own lanes; where there should have been maybe two, at one point there was five lanes! Everyone was jostling to be in the seemingly faster lane. Three hours it took us to do a 70km stretch.
A prevalent sight was passenger trucks crammed full of people, all standing squashed in like sardines, while the sun baked down upon them. One truck must have had about twenty-five if not thirty passengers in the back. Health & safety has no reach here.
Another amazing sight was when a car passed us that had obviously been rolled recently. The front and rear windscreen were completely smashed and broken, the roof was held down with duct-tape; the fact it was allowed on the road was beyond me. Driving here is definitely an adventure.
Rolled into the Sunset Beach Lodge in Chidenguele for the night. Seven of us are staying in Casa Grande, and the Edwards couples are staying at Casa Baracuda, both are lovely self-catering chalets.
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